July 18, 2008 -- The streets of Algiers are no longer empty at night. Encouraged by the improved security situation, residents are rediscovering their love of nightlife. Ice-cream parlours, leisure parks, beaches and clubs are swamped with young people looking for fun and families seeking fresh air.

The bustling evenings are a stark contrast to those filled with fear of terrorism during the "curfew years".

With its ghost-town reputation of just a few years ago no more than a bad memory, Algiers is undergoing a revival. Now, with complete peace of mind, night owls can experience the nightlife worthy of a capital city.

The change in atmosphere is not limited to wealthy neighbourhoods. The working-class Bab El Oued district, an Islamist stronghold in the 1990s, is now very different. By 10pm, whole families begin flocking to El Kettani, a popular beach promenade which has been completely revamped. While some are content to feel the sea breeze and enjoy an ice-cream, the more adventurous take a dip in the sea.

Not far away, on the large terrace overlooking the sea, the atmosphere is reminiscent of a fairground. Children queue up for the amusement rides.

Such scenes would have been unimaginable just a few years ago.

"Bab El Oued used to be bandit country," says Malika, who has lived here for over 40 years. "When the terrorist attacks were at their peak, the idea of swimming here on El Kettani was unthinkable. No one dared disobey the curfew. But now, to our great relief, we can enjoy ourselves again. Isn’t it wonderful to see all these families going out for a breath of fresh air?"

We head for Didouche Mourad, a busy road. While most shops are closed at night, ice-cream parlours and pizzerias stay open until the small hours.


The Fleur du Jour, one of the oldest ice-cream parlours in Algiers, is deluged with customers. There is not an empty seat to be had. All one can do is wait and hope that a place will become free or else buy a cone and go for a walk.

Things have changed beyond recognition, says a vendor who has worked here for years.

"I haven’t seen so many people here for at least a decade. Some years we used to close at 7pm because no one went out, but as you can see now, the young and the not-so-young are having evenings out with nothing to worry about," he tells Magharebia.

Women, couples and whole families are out for a stroll. Many head in the direction of the main post office, where a giant screen has been erected for the films shown each evening. The crowd sometimes gets so big here that peals of laughter can be heard some distance away.

Over in Sidi Yahia - a trendy district of the capital awash with neon signs and brand-name stores - everything stays open at night. Wealthy young people come here not just to shop but also to be seen.

The tea-rooms and terraces are all packed. The clientele is mainly young couples or groups of friends out for a good time.

"Every night I come to Sidi Yahia with my friends," says trendily-dressed Nazim. "We have a coffee or an ice-cream and of course we chat up pretty girls. It’s summertime. You’ve got to make the most of it!"

While many choose to stay in the city because they have no means of travelling elsewhere, car-owners venture outside the capital. For those who leave Algiers for recreation, Staoueli is a favourite destination.


The town has become so popular that many streets are being converted into pedestrian walkways for reasons of public safety. Restaurants and ice-cream parlours try to outdo each other to attract customers. And with kebab scattered throughout the streets, there is something here for everyone.

Police officers are on the lookout to ensure that nothing disturbs the peace, and they are quick to intervene when asked to do so, no matter how insignificant the problem.

"I love coming here. I feel really safe," says Lamia, a state bank worker. "I come here with just my mother and kids – the fact that the security forces are present gives me peace of mind. I feel safe from the nuisances which a woman on her own usually faces."

Several miles away at the port town of Sidi Fredj, the ambience is equally pleasant. Beach-lovers come here to stroll and admire the pretty boats in their moorings. Those who prefer to dance the night away head for the small Roman theatre of Casif and its busy weekend nightlife. Well-known singers such as Nawal Zoghby often perform concerts here.

A little further west, La Madrague has remained faithful to its reputation as a party centre attracting people from all walks of life.

Outside, people can be seen sipping drinks and smoking at terrace tables. The sound of Rai music fills the air, with chebs belting out requests from customers.

"You can find everything and anyone here, from the top manager who comes to unwind to the intellectual who comes to debate the current state of society. It’s a very interesting cross-section of society," says one regular visitor.

"That’s a lovely picture of tolerance!" he adds.