As an Algerian student living in the South of France in the '70s, Fay al Belakhdar said he always dreamed of a place where he could go and relax without feeling like people were scrutinizing him for being foreign.

With that thought in mind, Belakhdar, owner and head chef at Mediterranean Cafe, 625 State St., strives to make his restaurant a place where everyone feels welcome.

"I don't know too much about fancy food, so I like to serve food that enhances conversation and friendliness," he said.

The cafe, which opened November 1996, offers simple Mediterranean comfort food, such as hearty ethnic casseroles and soups, that Belakhdar calls "blue-collar" food.

Though born and raised in Algeria, Belakhdar said he didn't believe in having food from only one country, but wanted to give diners more options.

"Algeria is between Europe and the Middle East and so I thought I should have a little bit of everything from the Mediterranean," he said.

Middle Eastern food - such as shawarma, falafel and hummus - form the basis of his menu, but he offers Greek, Algerian, Italian, and French- inspired cuisine as well, in the form of daily specials. The cafe rotates this collection of more than 50 special dishes, offering about four a day.

"I don't take people for granted so I always come up with things so people don't get bored," Belakhdar said.

His process for creating new dishes begins with research in the form of cookbooks and cooking shows. He prides himself on transforming the gourmet food he studies into simple, yet delicious everyday fare.

"The fancy food is in a book, and when you come to my restaurant, I make it blue-collar," he said.

One of the most popular specials, the chicken apricot pie, mixes chicken, almonds, apricots and bulgur wheat into a casserole smothered in a b chamel sauce infused with orange blossom water. All dishes are accompanied by a fresh Greek salad and rice pilaf.

The one-room restaurant seats about 40 diners and is decorated with brightly-colored tapestries. Belakhdar said he gets hundreds of customers a day, including many takeout orders.

"It can get chaotic in the back, but because the menu is simple, the food is simple, the service is simple too," he said.

The restaurant is often packed at lunch time, but Belakhdar said he has no plans to expand. Ethnic restaurants often go bankrupt following an expansion, he said, and getting bigger might hurt the quality of service.

"I know my customers, I know my physical abilities - I don't want to get crazy," he said. "At some point it's not all about money."

'Blue collar' cuisine at Mediterranean Café



Mediterranean Café Web site