Turkey

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Topkapi Palace - Istanbul







sources:galeri.istanbul.gov.tr

About Topkapi Palace

It is located on the promontory of the historical peninsula in İstanbul which overlooks both the Marmara Sea and the Bosphorus. The walls enclosing the palace grounds, the main gate on the land side and the first buildings were constructed during the time of Fatih Sultan Mehmet (the Conqueror) (1451 - 81). The palace has taken its present layout with the addition of new structures in the later centuries. Topkapı Palace was the official residence of the Ottoman Sultans, starting with Fatih Sultan Mehmet until 1856, when Abdülmecid moved to the Dolmabahçe palace, and functioned as the administrative center of the state. The Enderun section also gained importance as a school.
The main exterior gate of the Topkapı Palace is the Imperial Gate (Bab-ı Hümayun) which opens up to the Ayasofya Square. This gate leads to a garden known as the First Court. This court has the Aya Irini Church which was once used as an ammunition depot and behind the Church there is the mint. In the past various pavilions allocated to different services of the palace were located in the First Court. In later years these have ben replaced with public buildings and schools. Some of these are still existing. At the end of the 19th century the Archaeology Museum and School of Fine Arts (now Oriental Works Museum) were built in the large garden which is to the northwest of the First Court. The oldest structure in this section is the Çinili Köşk built by Fatih, which is now used as the Museum of Turkish Tiles and Ceramics. On the walls of this outer garden facing Bab-ı ali (the Imperial Gate), there is Alay Köşkü (procession Pavilion) where the Sultans used to watch the marching ceremonies. A section of the outer garden was planned by the municipality at the beginning of the 20th century and opened to the public. Known today as the Gülhane Park, the entrance has one of the larger gates of the palace. After the First Court, there is the Second Court which contains the palace buildings. It is entered through a monumental gate called Bab'us-Selam or the Middle Gate. The buildings in this court form the outer section of the palace which is called Birun. On the right there are the instantly noticed palace kitchens with their domes and chimneys and the dormitories of those who worked there. The most important of the buildings on the left side of the court are the Kubbealtı and the Inner Treasury. Behind Kubbealtı rises the Justice Tower, which is one of the symbols of the Topkapı Palace. The Harem section, which comes all the way to the back of these buildings is entered from the Third Court. Third Court is entered through the gate called Bab'üs Sa'ade (Gate of the White Eunuchs). This section of the palace is called Enderun, and it is the section where the sultans live with their extended families. Hence it is specially protected. The barracks of the Akağalar, which guard Bab'üs Sa'ade are on both sides of the gate. There are two structures. The first which is immediately opposite the gate is the Throne Room or the Audience Hall. Here the sultans received the ambassadors and high ranking state officials such as Grand Visier or the Visiers. Right behind the Throne Room there is the library built by Ahmet III (1703 - 30). On the right side of the Third Court, there is the barracks of the Enderun and the Privy Treasury which is also known as the Mehmet the Conqueror Pavilion. On the side facing the Fourth Court, there is the Larder Barracks of the Enderun, the Treasury Chamber and the Chamber of the Sacred Relics. The left side starts with the Harem. The Harem, which covers a large part of the Palace, consists of about 60 spaces of varying sizes. The main structures which are located in front of the Harem, facing the Third Court are Akağalar Mosque, Sultan Ahmet Mosque, Barracks of the Sacred Relics Guards and Chambers of the Sacred Relics. Here, the sacred relics brought back by Sultan Yavuz Selim from Egypt in 1517 are kept. The Fourth Court is entered from a covered path going from both sides of the Treasury Room. Here the buildings are located in the first part of the court, which has two sections of different levels. On the left side of this section called Lala Garden, or Lale Garden, there is Mabeyn which is the beginning point of Harem's access to the garden, a terrace for the ladies with a removable glass enclosure, the Circumcision Room, the Sultan İbrahim Patio and another one of the symbols of Topkapı Palace, the İftariye (or Kameriye) and Baghdat Pavilion. This pavilion was built by Murad IV in 1640 to commemorate the Baghdat Campaign. At the center of the first section of the Fourth Court, there is the Big Pool and Ravan Pavilion next to it. This pavilion was also built by Murad IV in 1629, to commemorate the Revan Campaign. The side facing the second section has Sofa Pavilion (Koca Mustafa Pasha Pavilion), Başbala Tower and Hekimbaşı (Chief Physician) Room. The Sofa Mosque and Esvap Chamber and the latest built Mecidye Pavilion are on the right hand side of the Fourth Court. Out of the pavilions built on the shore of the Marmara Sea, only Sepetciler Mansion has survived until the present. During the 18th Century when the Topkapı palace took its final shape, it was sheltering a population of more than 10.000 in its outer (Birun) and inner (Enderun) and Harem sections. It shows no architectural unity as new parts were added in every period according to need. However, this enables us to follow the stages Ottoman Architecture went through from the 15th to the middle of the 19th century at the Topkapı Palace. The buildings of the 15th - 17th centuries are simpler and those of the 18th - 19th centuries, particularly in terms of exterior and interior ornamentation are more complex. Topkapı Palace was converted to a museum in 1924. Parts of the Palace such as the Harem, Baghdat Pavilion, Revan Pavilion, Sofa Pavilion, and the Audiance Chamber distinguish themselves with their architectural assets, while in other sections artifacts are displayed which reflect the palace life. The museum also has collections from various donations and a library.

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SultanAhmet Mosque - (Blue Mosque)

Known as the 'Sultan Ahmet Mosque' by local people, it was built by Sultan Ahmet in 1609 and completed in 7 years, although foreigners have taken to calling it the ' Blue Mosque ' because of the beautiful blue Iznik tiles decorating the interior. The architect who oversaw its design was Sedefkar Mehmet Aga, better known as a student of Sinan (the greatest architect ever seen in the Ottoman Empire). Not only was it built to serve as a mosque, but its huge surrounding complex also held a medrese (theological school), turbe (tomb), hospital, caravaserai, primary school, public kitchen and market, although the hospital and caravanserai were destroyed in the nineteenth century. After the public kitchens were destroyed in a fire in 1970, they were restored and incorporated into the School of Industrial Art.

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Dolmabahçe Palace





Neslihan Basak-istanbul.gov.tr



islam sadiker-istanbul.gov.tr

In 1922, the last Sultan, Mehmet VI (Mehmet Vahdeddin) escaped to Malta when was awaited by hundreds of loyal people of the Sultan, along the small path of the Dolmabahçe Sarayı (palace) leading to the Hamidiye Camii (mosque), for a Friday-praying ritual. The Sultan being just one week gone, his court disrupted and the Harem, against heavy protest of eunuchs, was opened. Ads were placed in the international press to call the families, for as far they could be traced. The ladies whose families wouldn't show up were sent to Büyük Ada, one of the Prince's islands. These ladies were being called ,'Saraylı hanım', or 'lady of the palace' for the rest of their lives. In the 70's one of the ladies of the palace was still alive but as she got sick, moved to a pension at the küçükayasofia (little Haghia Sophia).

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Yerebatan Sarnici (Sunken Palace Cistern)

THE HISTORY OF THE BASILICA CISTERN

One of the magnificent historical constructions of Istanbul is the Basilica Cistern, located near south-west of Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia). This huge cistern, which was founded by Justinianus I, a Byzantine Empire (527-565), began to be called by the public ‘the Sinking Palace’ – and not without a reason, seeing the great number of marble columns arising out of the water. In place of the cistern was formerly found a great Basilica, which had probably been built in IIIrd or IVth century during the Early Roman Age to be used in commercial and legal affairs and scientific and artistic activities. The basilica was reconstructed by Ilius after it had burned down in a conflagration that broke out in 476. Then it suffered another conflagration. It had a marble statue during the calamitous Nika rebellion in 532 which terrorized the city.

It is narrated in former references that there was a garden here, surrounded by a colonnade, which faced Ayasofya. It is also added that there was a bronze statue of the Prophet Solomon in the garden, with his hand on his chin looking in amazement at Ayasofya, which was even more marvellous than his work. The mentioned statue was later removed by the Emperor Basilius I (867-886). As is known, the temple that been erected by the Israeli King, the Prophet, Solomon in Jerusalem in his name had been known as the most magnificent work on earth until Ayasofya was constructed. It is further narrated that the Emperor Basilius had the said statue melted and had his statue erected on the spot. The Emperor Justinianus had this cistern built in 542 on the site of the great basilica that had been destroyed in a conflagration.

Again, it is narrated that 7.000 slaves worked in the construction of the cistern. In fact, the cistern borrowed its name from Ilius Basilica in the vicinity. The water of Basilica Cistern came from Eğrikapı Water Distribution Centre in Belgrade Forest, 19 kilometers from the city, through the 971-meter-long Valens (Bozdoğan) Aqueduct, which was built by the Emperor (368) and the 115.45-meter-long Mağlova Aqueduct, which was built by the Emperor Justinianus.

The plan of the Basilica Cistern was drawn by a group of German divers in the early years of this century, according to which it is a giant construction located in a rectangular area with its length of 140 meters and with of 70 meters. Inside this cistern, into which you descend with 52 stone steps, are found 336 columns each 9 meters high and 4.80 meters apart, which are arranged in 12 rows of 28 each. These columns arising out of water remind an endless forest, thus affecting visitors as soon as they entered the cistern. The ceiling weight of the cistern was transferred to the columns by means of cross-shaped vaults and round arches. The columns the majority of which appear to have been taken from older buildings and which were engraved from diverse types of marble and granite are composed of one piece while some were made up of two pieces that were put one on another. Also, there seem to be different features between the tops of these columns. For instance, while 98 of them reflect Corinth Type, some others reflect Dor Type. The 4.80 meter-thick brick walls of the cistern and the brick floor of the cistern were plastered with a thick layer of Horasan mortar and made water-resistant.

This cistern that was laid on an area of total 9.800 m2 has the capacity to store 100.000 tons of water. The great majority of the columns in the cistern, excluding the few cornered or grooved ones, are in the form of cylinder, among which the one that was embroidered with repeatedly engraved and raised pictures of Hen’s Eye, Slanting Branches and Tears particularly draw attention. As a matter of fact, this column has resemblance to the columns in the Triumphal Arch of Great Theodesius belonging to the IVth century (379-395) erected in the ‘Farum Tauri’ Square during the Byzantine Empire, the remains whereof are now found in today’s Beyazıt Square. According to a narration, the reason why the figures thereon resemble tears is that it was erected to the memory of hundreds of slaves who died during the construction of the Great Basilica and has ever told their tragedy throughout centuries.

The part that goes through the middle section of the cistern and intrudes through the south-west wall as an irregular projection the length whereof is 40 meters and width 30 meters was actually the walls that were built during the restorations in earlier years so that they could bear the weight. As 40 columns remain behind these walls, 9 columns at the longest part and 2 at the narrowest, they are not in vision. The two Medusa heads used as pedestals at the bottom of the two columns in the north-west corner of the cistern are of the masterpieces of the Roman Cagi Art of Statuary. Although there is no certain proof as to from which building these heads pertaining to IVth century – which are watched by visitors in great admiration - were taken, it is generally agreed by researchers that they were taken from an antique building pertaining to the Young Roman Age. Yet, although there seems to be no written evidence explaining that they were used as pedestals of columns, it is again generally certified by researchers that the Medusa heads were used only because they were needed as the pedestals of columns in the construction of the Cistern.

If we wish to journey back to the early ages of history about the great number of rumors that were based upon the mythology about Medusa, we could hear narrations like this:

According to a narration, Medusa was one of the three Gorgons, the female dragons of the underground in the Greek Mythology. Of those three sisters only Medusa with snakes for the hair was positive and had the power to turn those that looked at her into stone. Therefore, it is thought that in that period Gorgon-heads, figures and statues were put with an aim to protecting great buildings and special places and Medusa was also placed there with that contemplation.

Still, according to another narration, Medusa was a girl that boasted of her black eyes, long hair and graceful figure, who had long been in love with Perseus, the son of Zeus, a Greek idol. In the meantime, Athene, a female idol, was also in love with Perseus and therefore envied Medusa. For that reason, Athene changed Medusa’s hair into horrible snakes. From then on, whomever Medusa looked at, he was petrified. Later, seeing her in that form Perseus thought in astonishment that Medusa had been bewitched and then he beheaded her. Thereafter, he took her head in his hand and exposed it to his enemies and petrified them and thus won a lot of wars. It is thus rumored that after that event Medusa’s head was engraved –either upside down or in an oblique position - in the handles of swords and on the pedestals of columns in ancient Byzantium.

(pics: yerebatan.com, math.ucsb.edu. istanbul.gov.tr, wowturkey.com)

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Yerebatan Sarnici (Sunken Palace Cistern)

Yet, according to another rumor, because of her ability to petrify those that looked at her, Medusa saw herself, sometimes in Perseus’s sword and sometimes in the mirror, and thus changed herself into stone. Accordingly, the sculptor who made the statue here carved Medusa in three different positions by the reflection positions of light: 1) The normal one, which is now in Didim; 2) The statue which is upside down; 3) The oblique one that is now here was brought from Didim. The two gigantic Medusa heads, which are of the masterpieces of the Roman Cagi Statuary, go on attracting the great attention of people with their positions - upside down or oblique – the water in the Basilica Cistern has been dropping harmoniously ever since and murmuring the song of Medusa to the visitors who promenade in the dim arcane atmosphere of the cistern.

Ever since its foundation, the Basilica Cistern has undergone several reparations and restorations. The first restoration of the cistern, which was restored twice during the Ottoman State, was fulfilled in 18th century during the reign of Ahmed III (1723) by the Architect Muhammad Agha of Kayseri. The second big reparation was realized in 19th century during the reign of Sultan Abdulhamid II (1876-1909). As the eight columns situated in front of the northeast wall of the Cistern towards the middle of the Cistern suffered the risk of breakage during a construction in 1955-1960, each of these was put inside a thick concrete layer, thus losing their former features. The Basilica Cistern has undergone several reparations and restorations ever since its foundation.

The Underground Cistern, which covered a large area during the Byzantine Empire and provided water to the great palace, where the emperors lived, and the vicinity, was used for a further while after the conquest of Istanbul by the Ottomans in 1453 and the gardens of Topkapı Palace were irrigated with the water from the cistern. It is understood that the Ottomans, who preferred running water to still water, did not use the cistern after they had established their own water facilities. The cistern remained unknown to the West until mid-XVI. century. Then the cistern was discovered by P. Gyllius, a Dutch traveler, who visited Istanbul in 1544-1550 with a view to studying the remains of the Byzantine, and introduced to the west by him. In one of his researches, when - while he was walking around Ayasofya - P. Gyllius was told that the homefolk of the houses in the vicinity drew water from the large round well-like holes found in their basements with the buckets they dropped down and that they even caught fish, he managed to go down into the cistern armed with a torch through the stone steps in the garden of a wooden house, which was surrounded with walls, which was found upon a large underground cistern. Under very difficult conditions, P. Gyllius managed to sail around in the cistern and measured it and witnessed the columns. P. Gyllius, who wrote his discoveries and knowledge in his published travelogue, impressed a great number of travelers. Thereupon, all the travelers that visited Istanbul throughout centuries could not afford not to see this magnificent work.

Yet, another author who studied the Basilica Cistern is G. İnciciyan, a historian-researcher. He writes on the Underground Cistern - while he describes the situation of Istanbul in XVIII. Century - in his work entitled ‘History of Istanbul’ as follows: “This cistern, which is located south-west of Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia), half a mile away, among houses, was built by Great Constantius under the Great Palace. It bore the name Basilika Kinotexna. Particularly in winter there were fish in the cistern that was filled like a sea. In fact, it is thought that water came there from the Brook Alibeyköy by means of underground canals. “Here, in saying that the Basilica Cistern was built by Great Constantius (324-337), P. İnciciyan has been mistaken like many researchers and historians…”

Edmando De Amicis, an Italian author, who visited Istanbul towards the end of XIX. century (1874), describes in his work entitled Constantinapoli (Istanbul), wherein he gives his readers rich information on the social life and historical works of the city, by the beauty whereof was enchanted, the arcane atmosphere of the Basilica Cistern in a poetic language as follows: “I entered the garden of a Muslim’s house, descended to the end of dark, humid steps and found myself under the domes of the Great Basilica Cistern of the Byzantium, which was unknown by the Istanbulers how it ended. The greenish water that is partly enlightened by washing-blue light – which further increases the horror of the darkness – vanishes under the dark domes while the walls shine with the water running down thereon thus dimly discovering the endless rows of columns everywhere like the trunks of trees in a pruned forest.”

The Basilica Cistern, about which such many stories have ever been told, was changed into a museum and opened to visitors by the Istanbul Municipality after the reparations and restorations it has undergone during the Republican Age. Before the cistern has been restored into its present condition, with the works started in 1985 50.000 tons of mud was taken out and a promenade platform was built. This restoration work was completed in 1987 and the cistern was re-opened to visits. In May 1994, the Basilica Cistern underwent a further great cleaning and maintenance and thus it began to continue its adventure with fish therein as it did in the past. While visitors to the Cistern observe the fish swim among the columns on the one hand, they sip their coffee in the company of the classical music played continuously on the other, thus dive into an arcane journey into the depths of history...

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Location: Ciragan Palace Hotel Kempinski is situated on the European shores of the Bosphorus in a very convenient location between the districts of Besiktas and Ortakoy,a 45 minute drive from the airport. Within close walking distance of the Hotel is the harbourside district of Ortakoy,a fascinating area full of seafood restaurants,specialty antique,ceramic and jewellery shops. On the weekends there's a colourful street market with a fine selection of Turkish handcrafts in a delightful setting beside the famed Ortakoy Mosque.

Close to this area are some of Istanbul's most famous open-air restaurants and nightclubs.

Hotel: Once the residence of the last Ottoman Sultans, the Ciragan Palace Hotel Kempinski İstanbul is the only hotel situated directly on the European shores of the Bosphorus.

As the first member of the Leading Hotels of the World in Turkey, The Ciragan Palace Hotel Kempinski İstanbul is actually two hotels: the restored Sultan’s Palace itself and a grand deluxe hotel featuring five star luxury.

You can enjoy the privilege of hotel's private grounds with royal gardens, seaside promenade and panoramic views, a perfect oasis in the center of the city.

The hotel's award winning culinary team will enliven your senses in any one of the half dozen signature restaurants. ( Laledan; World cuisine – Tuğra; Modern Turkish and classical Ottoman cuisine and more.)

Newly renovated guest accomodation and well appointed palace suites ensure the utmost in both luxury and comfort.

Airport transfer service by their private fleet whether by limousine, helicopter, or motor yacht allows you to begin your Ciragan experience the moment you step into this majestic city.

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HAGIA SOPHIA (AYASOFYA) MUSEUM

Hagia Sophia was the seat of the Orthodox patriarch of Constantinople and a principal setting for imperial ceremonies. During the Latin Occupation (1204-1261) the church became a Roman Catholic cathedral, and its many treasures and relics were dispersed. It was converted to a mosque at the Fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Turks under Sultan Mehmed II in 1453. Since more conservative factions of Islam consider the depiction of the human form to be blasphemous, its mosaics were covered with plaster. (While figurative representation has never been completely banned in Islamic art, figures of humans were generally forbidden.) For almost 500 years the principal mosque of Istanbul, Ayasofya served as model for many of the Ottoman mosques of Constantinople such as the Shehzade Mosque, the Suleiman Mosque, and the Rustem Pasha Mosque.In 1934, under Turkish president Kemal Atatürk, Hagia Sofia was secularized and turned into the Ayasofya Museum. Nevertheless, the mosaics remained largely plastered over, and the building was allowed to decay. A 1993 UNESCO mission to Turkey noted falling plaster, dirty marble facings, broken windows, decorative paintings damaged by moisture, and ill-maintained lead roofing. Cleaning, roofing and restoration have since been undertaken. Although Turkey, and Istanbul in particular, is more secular than most Muslim countries, the status of Hagia Sophia remains a sensitive subject. The Islamic calligraphic displays suspended from the main dome remain in place. The Christian iconographic mosaics are being gradually uncovered.