October 30, 2010 -- Obscure and still very much a world unto its own, Algeria is a country rich in history and culture. You’d be forgiven if you didn’t know anything about Algeria apart from its recent, rather unremarkable participation in the 2010 World Cup. Despite being the second largest country in African, spanning from the Mediterranean to the Sahara, and the world’s fourth largest natural gas exporter, this country remains relatively unknown. However, its seeming obscurity makes it all the more beguiling, a jewel to be discovered.

Over the centuries, many have ruled Algiers, including the Phoenicians, Romans, Vandals, Berbers, Byzantines, Spanish, Barbary, Ottomans and French. Today, Algeria turns a page on its violent history and looks forward to a peaceful, prosperous and developed future. Much of the city centre remains in its colonial form — whitewashed buildings with its distinct blue windows and railings. Modernisation clashes with old world charms; globalisation tries to find a place amidst Islamic and traditional cultures; elderly men still gather every evening for their game of dominos on cardboard boxes by the streets while youths stand nearby fidgeting with the latest mobile phone models. Downtown, a sleek black BMW 7 series drives by as two men walk with a sheep in tow, ready for slaughter for a family celebration. Happily, Western fast-food has made little inroad against mum’s delicious homemade couscous.

The centre of Algiers is compact, built against the slopes that reach down to the Mediterranean shores, making it extremely suitable for walking tours. The Casbah, the original fortified city established by Barbarossa in the 16th century, is a fascinating labyrinth of steep narrow alleyways. Unlike many world historical sites which have been restored, this Unesco World Heritage Site remains essentially in its original form, keeping its authenticity, transporting visitors into an old world. What is more fascinating is what lies behind the closed doors. With a local guide, you get a chance to go behind these doors, to see the jewels of the Casbah — artisans still at work in their small workshops, crafting gold jewellery, copperware, shoes and clothes with simple tools.

At the bottom of the Casbah is the reverberating Place des Martyrs, ever busy, ever crowded, flanked by three historical mosques — Djeema Ketchoua, Djeema El-Djedid, and Djeema El-Kebir, all unique in their designs. Right smack in the centre of the square is a recently commenced archaeological dig determined to find the origins of this city. “Sadly, all that the world knows about us is terrorism,” laments Delilah, a local who has been through the colonisation period, the fight for independence and the black years of terrorism in the 90s. “Algeria today is so peaceful and beautiful. The global media only tells bad news, portraying our country as dangerous and rife with terrorism. This is not true. We welcome visitors,” she adds passionately. In the last decade, Algeria has enjoyed increasing peace and stability, with terrorism now confined to the eastern Kabylie Mountains and southern borders with Mauritania, Mali and Niger. These places remain off-limits to tourists.

Ghardaia


Ghardaia, also a Unesco World Heritage Site, is another of the Algeria’s jewels, easily accessible by road or plane (‚7/RM30 by public bus or ‚13/RM56 by shared taxi or ‚48/RM209 by flight). Located in the M’Zab valley, the five ancient cities of Ghardaia, El-Atteuf, Beni Isguen, Melika and Bou Noura were built on hills with the characteristic spiked mosque minarets at the peak. How do you survive in a place where temperatures soar to 45˚C without air-conditioning, one may ask. The answer lies in the unique thousand-year-old architectural designs. Tightly built houses with shadowed alleys, low ceiling interiors, the use of palm trunks and desert plaster, and a natural ventilation system help to keep the houses cool and fresh in summer and warm and cosy in winter. There are a few traditional guesthouses set amidst the oasis that allows visitors to experience firsthand these homes, complete with home-cooked Mozabite food and traditional live music. In the night, you can do what these peoples have done for a thousand years — stare peacefully at the starry sky and contemplate life.


A mystical sight, somewhat eerie, is the beguiling “one-eyed” women of Beni Isguen. Practising traditional Ibadite customs, a conservative form of Islam, married women are clad entirely in white with only one-eye exposed when in public, while the men wear grey baggy pants. Bajou, a Mozabite, will marry his fiancée next year. “Mozabite women normally marry at 19, and men at 23, all within the Mozabite clans,” he explains. “If a man marries a non-Mozabite woman, then one Mozabite woman will be left without a husband. So we must marry only within our own clans.” Known as astute businessmen all over Algeria, Mozabites are also very hospitable and friendly. You will certainly feel very welcomed here.


Constantine

Located on Algeria’s north-eastern end, Constantine serves as a good base to visit the many Roman ruins in this region. Visitors can get here by plane from Algiers (‚35/RM152) or direct from France. Algeria played an integral role in the Roman Empire, supplying grain, gold, olives, slaves and even wild animals for the amphitheatres. Its archaeological discoveries are displayed in many museums around Europe, including the Louvre. “Having seen Roman ruins across Italy and Spain, I wasn’t too keen to see more. But I was surprised when I saw entire Roman towns laid out before me. I could really sense and imagine myself going back 1,700 years because everything is in its original condition, not restored. Perhaps not so pretty to some, but you can’t beat its authenticity,” says a tourist. Two jewels you should discover here are Timgad and Djemila, both Unesco World Heritage Sites. They are described as some of the most perfect expressions of Roman power and African beauty. Constantine’s old Ottoman-influenced town itself is a wonderful place to discover on foot. Crossing some of the suspended bridges on foot will offer you breathtaking views, provided your legs don’t go wobbly. For lack of space, homes were built right to the edge of the gorge. In springtime, the slopes are covered with beautiful colourful wild flowers, adding to the magical feel. Being a country that is so diverse geographically, culturally and historically, and yet relatively untouched by globalisation, Algeria is definitely a jewel to be discovered. You could sum up the country in three words: Authentic, beguiling and captivating.