Morocco's takchita blends tradition and modernity

[Al-khiyal]

November 4, 2007 -- One of the oldest traditional dresses in the world, the Moroccan caftan, or takchita, dates back to the Merinide dynasty. According to some researchers, it was first made popular in Andalusia after the arrival of Ziryab, the 19th century composer who wore the garment when he moved to the region.

Moroccans are proud of their caftan as a deeply-rooted symbol of popular culture. No matter the type or quality of the dress, the takchita holds a unique allure for women from all classes.

Traditional tailors continue to devote their energies to creating innovative takchitas which Moroccan women continue to prefer over dresses from modern designers.

Mohamed, a tailor at one of Casablanca's biggest traditional clothing stores, is known for his mastery of the takchita. "In our different designs, we always observe Moroccan traditions and innovations in colours and the types of embroidery that carry the features of all Moroccan regions," he said. "In addition, the simplicity of design remains a dominant feature at all times."

Homemaker Fatima Bichri said, "I can't do away with my tailor who excels in the designs of my caftans. I got to know him when he was charged with the task of preparing all my wedding dresses. Although he follows the modern design lines, I've found that he still keeps the distinct Moroccan feature of the Moroccan caftan. In addition, he is not as expensive as some of the modern female tailors who have become used to making the Moroccan caftan look uncustomary by using so many pieces of cloth that require a lot of money."

In spite of Moroccan women's embrace of modern fashion, the takchita remains popular at wedding parties and has replaced the evening dresses that musicians and actresses tend to wear. The few women who wear modern evening gowns to wedding parties often receive strange looks rather than admiration.

The Moroccan caftan's traditional sewing is characterized by links to famous Moroccan regions. Designs from Fez, for instance, are characterized by deeply-rooted originality that mixes with the silver-plated or gilded wire the city's women refuse to abandon. Rabat's style of sewing, which is also called Makhzania sewing, is unique because it forms a loose caftan evoking the style that ladies of yesteryear flaunted in the palace.

Saida Fateh is of the opinion that the Rabat caftan is suitable for all occasions and times; it is never out of fashion. "For this reason, I'm keen on the same style of design in every new dress in order to use it for several years to come, especially as the cost of tailoring has become expensive," she said.

Loubna Chraibi, a tailor and caftan designer at one of the department stores in Casablanca's Maararif district, said, "The Moroccan caftan or takchita is indispensable. It is the symbol of our originality. None of us would find herself in any other form of dress at wedding parties or family occasions."

"Fashion changes in the type of material, for example from silk to Lorganza or 'mesh,' as well as in the type of sewing. One summer, we saw an interest in embroidered dresses. Other times, we saw interest in tiny-pearl-covered dresses. Oftentimes, the silk dress fashion is dominant but the sewing remains as-is, except for some improvements that we, as designers, add out of our own innovation so that we may add a special and distinctive touch."

Fellow designer Ghita Ouerdani says, "I have studied fashion design. I worked a lot during my studies in designing evening and wedding gowns. However, this is not what earns me my living today, as all my female customers demand the caftan."

Actress Susan Sarandon
attended the
6th Marrakech International Film Festival
in traditional attire

Many musical and theatrical artists now appear in the takchita at the biggest parties and occasions, including international events. The Moroccan caftan has thus come to the attention of Arab and Western markets which do not conceal their admiration. Statistics indicate that 75% of the annual production of Moroccan traditional clothing companies is exported to Arab and European markets. Many of these companies have opened offices in foreign capitals to supervise the distribution and marketing process.

Some enthusiasts, however, fear the caftan may lose its originality due to its world fame and its penetration into fashion houses that may turn it into a European or Western product, divorced from Moroccan civilisation.

"The Moroccan caftan is known and has nothing to do with what we see today in fashion shows, especially overseas," said Mohamed Naoui. "We see very different designs from the Moroccan traditional costume that embodies our heritage and history, yet we call them caftans. This is a major mistake, as decorum and propriety must be taken into consideration with this traditional dress."

Samira Haddouchi, a young Moroccan designer, said, "I insist on giving the dress its Arab touch and the warmth of colours that reflect my own feelings toward others as well. I don't like cold colours, and I seek to realize the harmony between the warm colours that give women their grace and elegance."

Haddouchi said Moroccan brides are very keen on celebrating in traditional dress rather than more modern styles; many are more interested in reflecting their Moroccan personality in a caftan or takchita with innovative touches that make them feel more beautiful and elegant.

The special nature and touch of the Moroccan caftan becomes clearer when a foreign artist or celebrity wears it. Samira Haddouchi's famous caftan, designed for Lebanese singer Haifa Wehbe, has appeared on the cover of numerous women's magazines and newspapers, and actress Susan Sarandon proudly displayed the garment at the 6th Marrakech International Film Festival.

Many famous Moroccan designers have become specialized in the caftan and they display their work at events throughout Morocco and around the world. The "Moroccan Caftan" fashion show, which gathers celebrities, designers and of course the media has become a regular event, and each year the monthly magazine Femmes du Maroc dedicates a whole issue to the show's takchitas.

Traditional dress in general has a major fan in the Moroccan royal family, with the caftan now the official apparel of princesses at nearly all events and parties both inside and outside Morocco. The royal ladies are keen on traditional designs that combine art, innovation and original culture while maintaining the Moroccan woman's grace and elegance.

Morocco's takchita blends tradition and modernity

[Bent_Bladi]

wooooooow... caftans are so fudging HOT!! i want one

[nesreen]

I love the Moroccan Caftans , i prefer them to Algerian dresses anytime. I have quite a few summer and winter ones in various colors with matching belts . i love them they make me look feminine and elegant, just a nice pair of earrings is all needed to finish off the outfit . the best ones are the hand made to measure

I have seen the latest fashion and i'm afraid i still prefer the traditional caftans , the new ones have too many additional pieces and things dangling , and too many colors .. i guess it is fashion .

[nesreen]

when i was in Morocco , i had a crazy cool friend who used to organise saturday Afternoons for Ladies , but she insisted we did not show up in jeans and tee shirts or skirts but in Moroccan Caftans so we did and we danced , drank coffee, tea , listened to music and my friend used to add the darbouka and create a fabulous Ambiance. at 6pm , a few husband would call to remind their wives that they had homes and kids ( I was one of them ) I have many photos showing us in our best outfits dancing and enjoying ourselves .

[Bent_Bladi]

wow... that sounds awesome... haha - can't wait til i have free time

[HOUDA-K]

Mode in Bollywood by fashion desinger Zahra Yaagoubi :

[mojo]

Lovely. The woman on the top right looks like she's eating toffee!